MurrayCycle Diaries: Fear, at fifty

The “self-guided” motorcycle tour of Ecuador sounded a little canned to my college buddy and me. Not for long.

Tom hit the dog and went down hard.

He was right in front of me, but I actually had time, as I swerved around the wreck on the wet mountain curve and looked for flat enough place to park the motorcycle, to think: And here I thought getting robbed two days ago in Cuenca would be the low point of our trip.

“Adventure travel” seems packaged and safe until you’re in the pouring rain in the Amazon jungle with an…